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Birthstone Jewelry
July-Ruby The Sight The price of wisdom is above rubies, says Job in the Bible, implying that rubies were highly prized in his time. Indeed, the respect and appreciation for rubies has always transcended all geographical boundaries and social class. The gold coronation ring of the English kings contains a large, tablet-cut ruby on which the figure of St. George's cross is engraved. Around the ruby are set 26 diamonds. Rubies are generously represented in crowns and scepters in the royal jewels of many nations. Ruby has acquired special attributes from its admirers over the centuries. It has been regarded as a symbol of freedom, charity, dignity and divine power. The Burmese believed that gemstones ripened like fruit. The redder the color, the riper the ruby. A flawed ruby was considered over mature. Large, gem quality rubies have always been very rare. The huge gems described in medieval romances and oriental literatures were most likely exaggerated by the imaginations of ruby admirers and creative authors. Ruby Color Ruby and sapphire are the two varieties of the mineral corundum. Their exceptional hardness is surpassed only by diamonds. Red corundum is called ruby and all other colors are called sapphire. The cut-off between ruby and pink sapphire on one end and plum sapphire on the other has long been a subject of controversy. Of course, gem dealers want the gem they're selling to be classified as a ruby because the name alone increases its value. Famous Rubies A few rubies have distinguished themselves because of their size or extraordinary beauty and are being guarded for posterity. The Louvre in Paris houses the Anne of Brittany Ruby, a 105-carat polished but irregular gem. The 167-carat Edwardes Ruby was donated to the British Museum of Natural History in 1887 by John Ruskin. This 167-carat gem was named in honor of Major-General Sir Herbert Benjamin Edwardes (1819-68) who saved British rule in India during the years of the Indian Mutiny. Two star rubies are displayed in American museums. The Smithsonian displays the 137-carat Rosser Reeves Ruby, and The American Museum of Natural History has the 100-carat Edith Haggin de Long Ruby. Ruby Sources The different geographical sources of ruby are known for characteristic colors and qualities, although they all produce a variety of gem material. Burma is famous for producing the greatest amount of top quality ruby-a fine, clear, deep red. Thailand is known for dark red to brownish-red stones. Typical Ceylon (Sri Lanka) rubies are medium light in tone. And Africa is known for small, sheet-like, purplish-red material. Burma is the most important source of ruby today. Other producers are the island of Sri Lanka-(formerly Ceylon), the countries of Thailand, Kampuchea (Cambodia), India and Australia, various localities in Africa and our own state of North Carolina. Mining Mining for rubies is done by primitive methods, much as it was centuries ago. Miners stake out an area and dig down about 15 feet to unearth the gem-bearing gravel. They sift the gravel through wire screens, and then continue with a panning method similar to that used for gold. Synthetic Ruby A synthetic ruby is nearly identical to the natural gem in physical appearance, chemical composition and optical properties and can easily be confused with genuine ruby by unknowledgeable buyers. Only a trained geologist can tell the difference by locating telltale inclusions in the stone Star Rubies Some rubies display a luminous star when viewed in the right light. This is caused by the orientation of intersecting needles within the stone. The light reflecting off them forms a star. Stars may be seen on certain translucent stones that have been cut in a dome shape. A Classic Gem Ruby's dramatic color and regal heritage make it the choice of the most discriminating jewelry lovers. Fine, large rubies may be worth more than diamonds of comparable size. They make elegant rings and pendants. Smaller stones are also set in these pieces as well as brooches, bracelets, and earrings. Small rubies are popular for use in anniversary rings to wear alone or in the company, of diamonds. Rubies are stunning against a backdrop of white, black, royal blue or emerald green. Make A Wise Purchase Since subtle differences in quality can make large differences in beauty (and price), it is important to select your jewelry from a professional who can guide you honestly and ethically in your purchase. Many gems are processed to enhance their natural beauty. You can ask our experts to help you decide on the clarity and structure of the ruby. August-Peridot Peridot (pronounced pear-uh-doe) is a French word derived from the Arabic faridat, which means gem. The stone ranges in color from light yellow-green to the intense bright green of new grass to olive. Because of the way Peridot splits and bends the rays of light passing through it, it has a velvety, "sleepy" appearance-a shining rich glow. The Insight According to astrologers, the wearer of Peridot will enjoy happiness in marriage, the power of eloquence in speech and enduring freedom from insecurity-both emotional and physical. Ancient Egyptians called Peridot "the gem of the sun," although they believed its seekers might not find it in sunlight. Because of their brightness in the desert sun, the stones were supposedly invisible by daylight. In darkness, however, they were alleged to give off a light of their own. By night, miners were said to mark their locations accordingly and return to recover their treasures by day. Peridot was believed to have the power to dissolve enchantments. To exert its full potential, the stone was to be set in gold. Then it would drive away night's terrors. If it was to be used to protect the wearer from evil spirits, it had to be pierced, strung on the hair of a donkey, and worn on the left arm. As a medical remedy, it was powdered to cure asthma. Holding a Peridot under the tongue was supposed to lessen the thirst of a person suffering from fever. The high priest's breastplate, which is described in the Biblical book of Exodus, includes a stone for each of the twelve tribes of Israel, one being Peridot. The Bible also tells of a jewel worn by King Esekiel from Exodus, an impressive Peridot. History of Peridot Archaeologists have found valuable Peridot's in Alexandria, Egypt, which must have come from the original source, the island of Zebargad (zebargad being the Arabic word for peridot). It is located about 50 miles from the coast of Egypt in the Red Sea. Faceted stones have also been found in the ruins of ancient Greece and attributed to the same source. Zebargad, which was known for many years as Saint John's Island, may have been mined as early as 1500 BC The island was discussed in the natural history of Pliny the Elder (23-79 A.D.) as having been explored in the fourth century BC it was called "the Serpent Isle' " since its many poisonous snakes interfered with mining activity. Eventually, an Egyptian ruler had the snakes killed and kept the miners isolated at work on the island. Because the rich green stones were so coveted, guards of the deposits were told to kill any unauthorized travelers approaching the island. The treasure was kept secret from the western world for centuries-from Biblical times until the seventeenth century. The mines were very active from 1906 until World War I and afterward until World War II. Burma then became the prime source of Peridot, stones from its Mogok region being generally a bit lighter green than those of Zebargad. Another major worldwide source of Peridot is the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona. Only the Apache Indians may mine there. Lesser sources of Peridot are Norway, Brazil, Australia, Hawaii and the Congo. Peridot has been found in meteorites. Where can you find them? The largest known faceted Peridot (310 carats) is displayed at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. Now a part of the Diamond Treasury in Moscow, Russia, is a yellowish-green 192.75-carat stone which belonged to the czars. A step-cut Peridot of 146 carats is in the Geological Museum, London, England. The collections of the American Museum of Natural History in New York and the Chicago Museum of Natural History have included beautiful examples of Peridot. Many Peridot's were taken to Europe by crusaders returning from the East and kept in cathedrals. Especially fine specimens are in the cathedral in Cologne. A Extraordinary Appeal Owners of Peridot's have reported that their fondness for these gems continues to increase over time. Whether step-cut or fashioned as brilliants, Peridot's can be used for rings, earrings, pins, necklaces and bracelets. They are available at affordable prices for those with modest tastes and in elaborate matched suites for connoisseurs. They can be set alone or combined with other gems that compliment their delicacy. September-Sapphire
The Insight Both Princess Diana and Princess Ann have sapphire engagement rings--examples of sapphire long being a favorite of royalty--including Charles V (1364) of France--to preserve them from harm. According to the Bible, sapphires were in the Garden of Eden and something like them will be in the heavenly Eden -- because of their high polish. Today, sapphire is the traditional birthstone for September. The peaceful, heavenly hues of blue stones were often thought to calm the mind, body, and spirit. And sapphires have been credited with many medicinal and spiritual powers; including an antidote for poisonous bites -- so Texans really need to wear them! The Details Sapphires have superior durability. And durability is more than just hardness--like the difference between a banana and an ice cube -- but sapphires are hard as well -- right after diamonds on the Mohs scale. Many people think all sapphires are blue. But sapphires are actually corundum that are any color except red. Red varieties are called rubies. Sapphires range in colors from violet being the most difficult to distinguish from a ruby to blue, green, yellow, orange, pink, and purple. The general term for any color except blue is "Fancy." The GIA is shying away from using "place" names in describing color. But you can still use fanciful language when selling the beauty of color. For example, the term "padparadscha" ("pad" for short), meaning "lotus color," is used to describe sapphires having a rare pinkish-orange color. The most desired sapphire color is pure cornflower (not cauliflower) blue. Small differences in any of the color components--hue, tone, and saturation--can have an important impact on value. Probably the most important enhancement besides that designed to improve color is that used to improve clarity. Controlled heating and cooling can dissolve the slender rutile needles (called silk) right into the crystal structure to improve the clarity. Although large sapphires are rare, the Smithsonian has the Logan sapphire--a 423 carat blue stone from Sri Lanka--together with several other large stones, including a 92.60 carat yellow Burmese. And large beautiful sapphires also can be seen in museums in New York City and Toronto. The Source The most important sapphire sources are in Kashmir, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia, deep in the heart of Texas -- and the Yogo Gulch in Montana. Other sources include Burma, Colombia, Kampuchea (Cambodia), Kenya, and Tanzania. Kashmir is the quintessential sapphire source! Blue sapphire from Kashmir has always been very highly regarded because of its superb cornflower blue color. The deposits were located in 1881. Almost all Kashmir sapphires show zoning, and this is one of the ways in which they can be identified. The zoning is associated with very small layers of liquid inclusions that give the velvety or sleepy appearance. The Kashmir mines have not been operating, at least officially, since 1983 and any crystals recovered were found by the indigenous population who were forbidden to engage in mining or in gem trading. Sri Lanka is the penultimate sapphire source. The main deposits are in Ratnapura, Pelmadulla, Balangoda and Rakwana. The milky white sapphires, locally known as geuda, are heated in Thailand to give a fine blue color. Sri Lanka is also the major source for yellow, violet and orange (Padparadscha) sapphires. Gem quality sapphire is found in many parts of Queensland, Australia but the main deposit is at Anakie. Sapphires occurring in alluvial deposits were first discovered in 1870. Colors include deep blue, green, opaque black, bronze and yellow. Increased heating of Australian sapphire, in Thailand, has reduced the volume of available inky-black Australian sapphire. Thailand is today's leading source of sapphire. But mining is not the reason. Instead, heating accounts for the large volume of stones sold. The Thais have developed elaborate procedures for "lightening Australian and darkening Sri Lankan" sapphires. Costs for the rough, mining, and cutting all fall behind the cost of the fuel needed to maintain the ovens used to "cook" sapphire. Black star sapphire is mined principally in Thailand. The sapphire deposits of Montana produced a large quantity of industrial grade material. Gem material was also found, and an estimated $25 million has been recovered from the Yogo Gulch mines. Lately the Yogo mining companies have fallen on hard times and filed for bankruptcy. This was partly because of the sale of "treated" sapphire from Thailand, as "natural Yogo sapphire." Do not expect Yogo to be "natural" untreated sapphire. The Structure The main sapphire-bearing rocks are marble, basalt, or pegmatite, mined mainly from alluvial deposits or deposits formed by weathering. Sapphires rarely are mined from the primary rock. Corundum stones (sapphire and ruby) are gems with the smallest hexagonal unit cells. They resemble boxes with hex ends and rectangle sides. This structure can be seen distinctly then viewed under a Gemscope. They have four axes -- three that intersect each other at 60 degree angles, and one perpendicular to the other three. In the Spectrascope, sapphire shows iron absorption in a wide band from 450-460 nm, with a fainter band to 470 nm. When a sapphire shows asterism, it is called a "star" sapphire. The star is seen in cabochon cut sapphires (rounded, dome-shaped cuts) as several movable arms, or rays of white light, radiating from the center. Black star sapphires are usually cut in a flat cabochon. And they need to be worn with more care than other sapphires to prevent separation between their "twinning" planes. "Twinning" occurs when alternating layers grow in different directions. |
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