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Insight
The pearl was the favored gem of the
wealthy during the time of the Roman Empire. This captivating gift from
the sea had been brought back from the Orient by the Crusaders. Roman
women wore pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth
immediately upon awakening.
Pearls were once considered an exclusive privilege for royalty. Pearls
had become more than a treasure; it was a measure of prosperity and
nobility. A law of 1612 drawn up by the Duke of Saxony prohibited the
wearing of pearls by nobility, professors, doctors or their wives.
On the other side of the world, pearls were being worn for adornment by
the American Indians. The freshwater pearls of the Mississippi River
were strung into necklaces, sewn onto headdresses and set into copper
ornaments.
Pearl had been around long before the mankind. It was around long
before mammals came to replace dinosaurs. It is around for hundreds of
millions years. But only humans have learned to value the beauty of
these "tears of the sea". As the result, since our ancestors
have discovered pearl, they began to worship it, and to use it to
measure luxury and success.
Ancient Egyptians also have learned to use the mother of pearl; about
6000 years ago they were using it to decorate jewelry. Mostly, its
source was the Persian Gulf.
As for the pearl itself, it had passed unnoticed by Egyptians till the
year 500 B.C In this area, the ancient China was definitely ahead, the
first written document they have, mentioning pearl, is dated 2300 B.C.
Not just this record mentions pearl, it is described as an exclusive
privilege of the royal family.
Merchants from India believed that the ring containing pearl can
protect its owner from thief's and from unfair deals in business.
According to ancient Greeks, pearls are the tears of the sea nymphs.
They were worshiping the beauty of the pearl, associating it with love
and marriage; in ancient mythology, the pearl necklace became the
synonym for a happy marriage. The rich Greek women were wearing pearls,
believing that not only it makes your eyes shine, but also guards the
owner from the torture of an unhappy love.
By the way, the belief that pearl makes your eyes shine, created
another belief - that it has the ability to cure eye problems.
In Europe, the pearl ring, given to the loved one, symbolized the "tears
of a broken heart". Also, Europeans believed, after the ancient
Greeks, that pearl is good for a marriage, as the result, it became a
popular part of bride's dress. The dress, covered with pearls,
symbolized the "girl's tears", the more tears, the stronger
the marriage was expected to be, and the less tears would be dropped
after the marriage.
During the Middle Ages, Knights not only presented pearl jewelry and
dresses to their loved ones, but also were taking it with them to the
battlefield, believing that it will save them from wounds.
One look at the famous paintings during the era of Renaissance is
enough to realize, that both kings and their "shining" vassals
were covered by pearls. Literally.
After America was discovered, all pearls extracted in the "new
world" were transported to Mother Europe. Greed of pearl catchers
resulted in almost complete extinction of American ouster in XVII. Pearl
was used in church dresses and decorations. It is not just a
coincidence: the symbolic sign of Christianity is fish. There was even a
legend in the medieval times: angels lock orphans and innocent souls in
the shells, and they turn into pearls.
Through all our history, from ancient China and India, to Europe and
Arabic countries, pearl was part of potions to treat sclerosis, sleep
disorders, asthma, heart and liver diseases, and even... snake bites.
Not only was it a gem, but also part of pills, potions and lotions.
Unfortunately, it is neither the best nor the cheapest way of getting
calcium!
But Pearl was and still is used to create expensive jewelry, to
decorate wonderful things we see sometimes in churches and in palaces of
kings. It is used at a measure of wealth, and of course - for some very
important reasons - it appeared through all our history on some very
nice necks and fingers. Still, since the end of XIX, it was a synonym
for treasure. It even was used as an equivalent to money sometimes. A
single pearl could cost a fortune but the people who could afford it
paid to see the pearls dangling from their necks.
Pearl is probably the only gemstone
that is used in jewelry as it is, without cutting. There are no two
identical pearls in the world, they all are unique. In China, it is
called gjen-dju, In India - "manjara (the flower), Greeks and
Italians call it "margarites", English, German and French
people call it "pearl", The Russians , "gemchug"
Pearl is a gem and in the same time - a biological substance, produced
by a mussel. These mussels are of different types, both freshwater and
saltwater. Freshwater species live in the zones with mild climate,
populating fresh (and clean!) springs, rivers and lakes of North
America, East Asia and Far East.
Due to the pollution, the number has dropped dramatically, so at the
moment five of these species are protected by law.
As for the saltwater ones, about 10 species, they live in tropical
seas: the Red Sea, Persian Gulf, Ceylon (Sri-Lanka), Australia, Japan
and Venezuela.
How is the pearl produced?
The natural (real) pearl is formed if the tiny grand of sand, or some
other irritant, gets into the body of a mussel, or between its body and
a shell. It can also be a reaction to the parasite. Pearl is simply a
reaction of the mussel, an attempt to isolate the foreign object, to
cover it with the mother of pearl the same material that covers the
inner side of a shell.
With time, an object of spherical or irregular shape is formed.
If you cut the pearl, you will see the core (the original grain of
sand) and the rings - thin layers of aragonite (calcium carbonate),
glued together with organic glue - conhioline - produced by a mussel.
The time that it takes to create a pearl, its color and other details
is directly related to the outside conditions, like the temperature,
quality of water and availability of nutrition's.
The color of a freshwater pearl is white, pink or mauve. Saltwater
pearl can be black, white, yellow or gray. The size on a pearl of an
average quality can be between few millimeters and the size of an egg of
a pigeon.
Extraction of natural pearl
Freshwater pearl is known for centuries all around the world, from
natives of North America to Russians. Russians, by the way, had the
technology of extracting pearl without causing extensive harm to a
population of mussels. All they used was... three baskets.
The first basket (one without the bottom) they were using to take a
closer look at the bottom of the river, edges of the basket "filtering
out" the waves. When the mussel was found, they were placing it to
the second basket, full of water. When the second basket was full,
Russians were placing the mussels to the second basket, with the heated
(not boiling! just warm) water. In the warm water, the mussel was
opening its shell, and the catcher was able to take a look inside,
without taking it out from the water. If there was no pearl inside, the
mussels were returned to the river.
Speaking of the Russian pearl, it is worth mentioning that in Russian
Carelia it was silver-white or silver-blue, while in Lapland it was pink
and sometimes black with metal tone. Most of this pearl have been sold
to the Northwegian merchants, not to the Russian tsar. It was supplied
either to the Europe or to the king of Northway.
More to the south, the saltwater pearl was much more popular. The best
quality was supplied from Persian Gulf, Red Sea, India and Japan. The
one from the Persian Gulf was valued the most. Some little amount is
still caught in Persian Gulf.
Catching the natural pearl is a difficult and dangerous occupation.
Catchers are collecting the mussels from the bottom of the sea in the
special bag. Aboard their boat, they use a special knife to open the
mussel, if lucky; they'll find one pearl in 30-40 mussels. Of course,
after such a barbaric procedure, all 40 mussels die.
Sometimes fortune smiles at the catchers, and they find 2-3 pearls in
one mussel, however, to find a high quality one, you need to go through
thousands of mussels. Besides - where can we find that much, considering
our ecological situation?
The Oldest Gemstone In The World
No other gem has captivated people's fascination and admiration like
the pearl. Diamonds may be forever, but pearls have been recognized as
prized jewels for centuries longer than any cut stone. Almost all other
gemstones are formed by mineral deposits that must be mined, cut, and
polished to reveal their sparkling beauty. Pearls, on the other hand,
are beautiful as they are - straight out of the oyster, high quality
pearls have an intense, brilliant luster and shiny iridescence that are
inherent in the pearl itself. For these reasons, pearls have become a
symbol of wisdom and natural beauty.
A Gift of Nature
Pearls are a natural wonder that have been treasured for centuries by
cultures ancient and modern all over the world. Greek mythology
proclaimed pearls to be tears of joy shed by the goddess Aphrodite.
Ancient Egyptians associated pearls with Isis, the goddess of healing
and life.
The Pearl was Prized by Rulers and Royalty
Julius Caesar limited the wearing of pearls to the rulers of the Roman
Empire during the first century B.C. In the glory days of the British
Empire, only royalty were allowed to wear these lustrous gems. Until
fairly recently, pearls were still worn exclusively by royalty and
wealthy nobility, as they were far too expensive for anybody else to
afford.
Noted in Legends and Literature
Tribal Indians, too, believed that pearls were tears of their gods. An
Arab legend weaves a tale of dewdrops filled with moonlight that fell
into the ocean and were swallowed by oysters, creating the precious
pearls. The gates of Heaven are made of pearl, according to the King
James Bible. Pearls were rumored to cure hundreds of ailments. The list
goes on and on.
There are many more references to the pearl in works of great
literature, and the lustrous jewels are often seen in famous paintings
as jewelry, hair decorations and clothing adornments.
Pearls have Always Been Valued and Cherished
According to some historical accounts, Native Americans accepted
strings of beads in exchange for the island of Manhattan. A few
centuries later, in 1916, renowned French jeweler Jacques Cartier
acquired land there for his first American store. The price? Two pearl
necklaces. This long and storied past only adds to the appeal of the
incomparable pearl, cherished today as a traditional wedding gift, a
birthstone, and in jewelry that reflects taste and refinement.
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